Dreams are fading in
China for African traders like Mouhamadou Moustapha Dieng, who in 2003 was
among the first wave of Africans to set up homes and companies in this port
city and forge trading links between China and the African continent.
Young
African traders who want to follow in the footsteps of Dieng's generation
complain of difficulties getting visas, police crackdowns and prejudice, which
come amid rising nationalism and slowing economic growth. Guangzhou is believed
to have the largest African population in Asia, but many are leaving as
long-time traders struggle against a slowdown in the Chinese economy and
increased competition from Chinese traders and the internet.
"Now
the trade is almost finished," said Dieng, 54 and from Senegal. His
profits are down 40 percent from a decade ago. In the absence of a Senegalese
consulate in the city, newly arrived 20-somethings on tourist visas head
directly to his office for advice on how to do business in China.
"They
come with their bags, they sit down, they don't have anywhere to sleep, they
don't have money," said the father-of-four. "Most of them, after 10,
15 days they go back."
Over
recent decades, Chinese companies and entrepreneurs have spread out across
Africa building stadiums, roads and other large projects, cultivating land,
running hotels and opening restaurants. Less well-known are the thousands of
Africans who live in or regularly visit the southern trading port of Guangzhou,
which neighbors Hong Kong. Estimates of this population of residents and
floating traders vary, and the police's entry-exit administration declined to
comment or offer data. The city's vice mayor said in 2014 that there were
approximately 16,000 Africans in Guangzhou, of which 4,000 were residents.
Guangzhou's population is 13.5 million.
The
first African traders started arriving in Guangzhou in the late 1990s,
attracted by its annual international trade fair, China's economic boom and the
ease of doing commerce in the city thanks to its wholesale markets, factories
and low prices. Guangzhou had benefited from being one of the first Chinese
cities allowed to open up to business in the 1980s, giving it a head start in
attracting exporters.
Now
that rosy picture has faded. Traders have to compete with online companies like
Alibaba that allow customers to order from their offices rather than going to
markets. They also have more competition from Chinese, like Dieng's former
employee who started her own business targeting his clients after picking up
the Senegalese language Wolof.
The
Associated Press spoke to 15 Africans in Guangzhou, both residents and traders
who travel back and forth. Some long-timers reported that the city had become
more welcoming over the years as mutual understanding increased between Chinese
and Africans. But others spoke of hostility from locals and authorities, which
comes amid a growing wariness of foreigners promoted by President Xi Jinping's
administration. Observers say the Communist Party is leaning on nationalism to
distract from slowing economic growth.
Claudia
Thaiya, 30, who sends electronics, furniture, clothes and shoes back home to
Kenya, says when she went to look at an apartment recently, the advertised
price went up when the landlord saw her. In some shops, she says, she hears
derogatory comments about her skin color. "It shows that we're seen as
dirty," said Thaiya, a former teacher.
Benjamin
Stevens had a business selling liquor in Zambia before coming to study Chinese
and civil engineering two years ago. He says he sees Africans being stopped by
police to have their papers checked every day, and Chinese move away from him
on the subway.
"Now
what I plan is to get what I want and that's the knowledge, about civil
engineering, and go and put it into practice in my country," he said.
Dieng,
who lives close to the center of Xiaobei, an urban village nicknamed
"Little Africa," said that for the past year, he has had to register
at the local police station every month, rather than annually as in the past.
"It
seems they want the Africans to leave this area," Dieng said. "Every
month now, I have to go to the police station, every month. I feel like I'm in
jail."
An
officer at the Jianshe police station, who did not identify himself, said that
it "depends on different cases" as to how often foreigners should
register.
Heidi
Haugen, who researches Africans in China at the University of Oslo, said that
the government wants to appear "in control to their local constituents —
although they're not elected, that's an all-important part of legitimizing the
government."
"So
if the immigrant population becomes too large and too visible, then that can
become a political problem in itself," she said.
City
authorities are attempting to move foreigners out of Xiaobei. For years it has
been filled with African traders, along with Middle Eastern and Chinese Muslim
shops and restaurants, and is within walking distance of several provincial and
city government offices.
Authorities
are hoping African businesses will relocate to a development, Guangda Business
City, a 40-minute drive away.
"Xiaobei
is a very small and crowded downtown area, where so many African residents
mingle with local Chinese, so there are some problems, if not conflicts, owing
to their different cultures and lifestyles," manager Deng Qiangguo said.
The
city government declined to comment.
Africans
in Guangzhou organize themselves into unofficial communities according to
nationality. These communities, which offer members mutual support, report
membership has declined over the past two years. The head of Guangzhou's
Tanzania community, John Rwehumbiza, said numbers had gone down
"tremendously" this year from about 200.
"Many
are going back," said Rwehumbiza. "Number one because of the
competition. Number two most of them feel they will do better back home than
here."
Chuka
Jude Onwualu, of the Nigerian business group Association of Nigerian
Representative Offices in China, or Anroc, said they had lost up to a quarter
of their members since their peak of 80, and business visas were harder to get.
"If
you haven't been to China before there's every likelihood you will be denied a
visa, so for new people it's really very difficult," he said.
Dieng,
who became a trader in China after a career as a pilot and engineer in the
Senegalese army, has sold sports shoes, jeans, T-shirts, electronics and
buildings materials during his 13 years here. He employs more than 20 Chinese
and a handful of Africans. Now, he's putting his last hopes into shipping, and,
if that doesn't work, his plan is to move back to Senegal and open a small
factory.
"It's near the
end," he says of his time in Guangzhou.
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