Despite
the ongoing threat posed by Boko Haram insurgents, some of the tiny
interconnected islands in the Lake Chad region are coming back to life as
residents return
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Gaou Moussa stands in
front of his family home nestled in the dense vegetation of Chad's Tchoukouli
island, where burnt straw and charred wood still litter the ground from a Boko
Haram attack three years ago.
In
spite of the Boko Haram threat, farmer Mal Kalo believes a life in the open air
is better than being packed into a refugee camp
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"They
killed my brother and we fled," he said.
Tchoukouli
-- one of hundreds of tiny interconnected islands about an hour's canoe ride
from Lake Chad's northern banks -- is coming back to life.
Despite
the ongoing threat posed by the Islamist insurgents, fishermen sit mending nets
and repaired ones curl in the sun nearby, while farmers guide their cattle into
the water and others tend to cornfields in the distance.
All
of these are activities that have been absent for more than two years.
Boko
Haram has been fighting a bloody insurgency since 2009, seeking to carve out a
hardline Islamic caliphate in the northeast of neighbouring Nigeria.
After
controlling a region the size of Belgium inside Nigeria by 2014, the Sunni
jihadist group was driven back in the last two-and-a-half years to remote areas
around Lake Chad, straddling Nigeria, Cameroon, Chad and Niger.
The
people of the islands have suffered from Boko Haram's relentless violence.
Villages have been pillaged and residents kidnapped and killed.
But
the first of the group's envoys came into the village mosques peacefully to
preach their version of the Koran, villagers said.
"They
would promise us paradise, resources, women," said Mohamed Mboh, the chief
of neighbouring Bouguirmi island.
Those
who resisted or opposed the movement's message were killed, their throats slit,
villagers said.
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'We hear rumours' -
Island
residents, particularly members of the Buduma ethnic group, also found
themselves caught between the jihadists and the Chadian army.
"Soldiers
came to burn our village after a Boko Haram attack because they mistook us for
them," said one 53-year-old woman, her face hollowed by hunger.
"Little
by little, other ethnic tribes and the army understood that we were also
victims as they picked up Budumas' bodies in the bush," said 60-year-old
Mboh, also a member of the tribe.
Civilians
are gradually feeling it is safe to return as Chad's army patrols the lake
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Faced
with increasing jihadist attacks, the Chadian government closed its western
border with Nigeria and evacuated its islands -- those that were not already
empty.
Chad's
army, one of the most battle-hardened in the region, continues to patrol the
lake's freshwaters and its northern banks, aided by vigilante civilian groups
-- giving residents a measure of safety and reason to return.
"We
came back to the village of Bouguirmi seven months ago, because we received
news that Boko Haram is no longer there, that the villages are protected by the
army," said Mboh.
"But
every day we hear rumours that there are Boko Haram members hidden in
places."
Mboh,
whose village numbers about 500 residents, said he now lives "in
peace", though he heard gunshots last month. He could not tell, however,
whether or not they came from a battle with jihadists.
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Destroyed crops and canoes -
"About
a year ago, I came back to see what I had planted before the Boko Haram attack,
but unfortunately hippos had destroyed everything," farmer Mal Kalo said.
The
41-year-old fled Bouguirmi two years ago, spending many hours in a canoe, on
foot and in a car to get to Iga, another small island closer to the mainland.
In
spite of the continuing threat, he feels that this life, independent and out in
the open air, is better than being packed into a refugee camp, where
malnutrition distorted children's bellies.
Still,
life here remains difficult. The harvests have been destroyed, the canoes are
shredded and the livestock emaciated.
The
border closure with Nigeria has halted commercial activity, blocking trade with
the region's main economic hub.
"Before,
we were able to do a small amount of business with Nigeria," Kalo said.
"But now we cannot because the border was closed a few years ago by the
authorities to fight against Boko Haram attacks."
Many
islands remain inaccessible as jihadists continue to launch sporadic attacks
from their hideouts dotting the lake, where thick foliage provides cover
against military operations.
Earlier
this month, Boko Haram attacked fishermen on the Nigerian islands of Duguri and
Dabar Wanzam, shooting and hacking their victims, leaving 31 dead.
The
fishermen had returned to Nigeria's fishing hub of Baga on the lake's shores
days earlier and paddled out to the islands looking for fish, according to
witnesses.
The eight-year conflict has left at least 20,000 people dead and displaced 2.6 million, creating one of the world's worst humanitarian catastrophes.
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