Hosseini -- not his real name -- handles
the steering-wheel deftly. A onetime tourist chauffeur, he makes his living
smuggling African migrants from his hometown of Agadez, in northern Niger, to
the Libyan border.
"See
the bands of white sticky-tape stuck to the back of the pick-up?" he says.
"That's because it's used for migrants and it stops them scratching the
paint when they sit at the back with their legs hanging out."
A
blue turban wrapped around his head, Hosseini, a member of Niger's ethnic
Tuareg people, talks about his job calmly and with little apparent emotion.
A
driver can earn 250,000 CFA francs (US$430, 380 euros) for bringing a truckload
of migrants to the Libyan border. If they're willing to shoulder the extra
risks of entering Libya, where bandits work the roads, that rises to 400,000
CFA francs.
In
Niger, a country where two thirds of the population lives on less than a euro a
day, the appeal was obvious to Hosseini.
"I
prefer being a driver to working in tourism," he says, adding that his old
job was less lucrative. He has completed two trips to the Libyan border so far,
and plans many more once he's bought his own pick-up.
In
Agadez, the smugglers' vehicles known as "Taliban 4X4s" are legion.
Few of them carry license-plates, though some have Libyan ones, and the sight
of them speeding through the dusty streets of the ancient town are a constant
reminder of the busy human trafficking trade.
"You
leave in a convoy on a Monday night. You arrive on Wednesday morning at the
Libyan border, 900 kilometres (560 miles) away. When night falls you park in
the dunes to avoid the bandits," said Hosseini, who is in his 30s.
The
return journey starts on a Thursday with the cars back in Agadez every Friday
night.
"You
have to drive as fast as possible. You're doing a steady 140 kilometres per
hour, sometimes hitting 160 kilometres an hour, with 300 litres of petrol on
board that you use on the way. At that speed, if a tyre blows out, you're
finished."
Pick-ups
screech around the town's outskirts as if competing in a mechanical rodeo, dust
flying, engines roaring.
And
there's a reminder that the traffic is two-way: on Friday nights taxis and
tuk-tuks gather to pick up destitute migrants returning from Libya, who have
found that the dangerous and expensive journey was not, after all, the answer
to their problems.
- Corpses -
An
amateur video of an accident near the border two months ago shows three 4X4s.
The first is bogged down in sand, the second hits it, the third is parked some
way away.
Libyan
soldiers are present at the accident site. One of them grabs the foot of a
migrant sliced off neatly during the collision. A crowd of around 50 others
stand about watching. Coloured heaps are strewn in the white sand in the
background. "Corpses," says Hosseini.
A
parent, he doesn't see himself as a criminal, or a member of the mafia.
"The
key thing for me is to bring my customers to the port," he says.
"There are people who leave and manage to get to Europe without any
problems, and there are those who die. That's life."
A
pick-up bound for Libya will be packed with 25 migrants hoping to start a new
life in Libya or beyond. Eight will be squashed into the cab: two in the front,
six jammed in the back. "We take the seats out to make more room,"
explains Hosseini.
The
other 17 migrants are piled into the back of the pick-up, hemmed in with sticks
of wood to stop them falling out.
"If
one of them falls, the others tap on the roof and I stop the van," says
Hosseini.
His
passengers, then, might be considered amongst the luckier ones. There are many
tales of migrants abandoned in the desert, left to face a slow and certain
death.
Agadez expects the arrival of 150,000 migrants
in 2015. Many of them will be from West Africa -- Senegal, Gambia or Mali. Some
will be hoping to find work in Libya; others intend to set sail from there to
Europe, despite the risks. The perilous sea journey has cost some 1,800
migrants their lives this year.
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